Gay creampi

The busy 13th Lane corridor in the Gayborhood is established for hip nourishment and visually fascinating restaurants. But newbie Alpen Rose features the kind of menu usually create closer to Rittenhouse Square.

This latest creation by celebrity chef and restaurateur Michael Schulson is a classic high-end steakhouse, complete with library-like décor and a vibe that makes you feel as if you necessitate a secret knock and code synonyms to gain access.

Among its bookshelves and chandeliers, the cozy space hosts decadent fare executed and presented with exacting detail.

The tuna carpaccio ($16) is straightforward and effective, with lemon juice and capers giving the thinly sliced fish room to display off. The avocado salad ($13) is surprisingly complex, with the warm, roasted avocado providing a textural counterpoint to the cool, crisp frisee and spicy dressing that pulls everything together.

The deeper you get into the menu, the more decadent the offerings. The prawns ($17) are substantial and come with a shot of strong sherry for dunking. The bone-marrow toast ($16) is piled deep with red-wine-marinated shredded beef cheeks, providing a tasty vessel for the steaming marrow straight off the bone.

The hearty and com